A Cornish spring

Inspite  of the bizarre spring  that we are having; which seems to lurch from one extreme to the other, I did manage to make it to Cornwall in March. I’d always wanted to go in the spring to see the camellias and maybe magnolias in bloom. Also, I had always hoped to walk with spring as it spread across Britain (apparently it moves at walking pace). In reality, this was not possible because of my knee but I did see a good many signs of spring including daffodils, red campion, camellias and celandines (as they were just coming into bloom).

Two out of the four days were sublimely good weather and as I trudged alone along the SW coast path it did feel like there was no place more beautiful on earth. The sea was a deep azure blue with the full force of the Atlantic behind it- so was quite an impressive sight. Being from Norfolk which although not as flat as everyone makes out, is nevertheless pretty tame compared with the Cornish coast, I often assumed the SW path stopped at the cliff-tops because from my angle of sight it appeared a sheer drop on the other side. Infact it took a direct but often sharply angled route that raised my pulse somewhat!

Also, there were some gorgeous boulder strewn beaches with the waves crashing heavily onto them and a good many streams wending their way to the coast through little sharp-sided valleys. Often they were planted up with architectural plants such as bamboos, camellias, tree ferns and gunnera which enhanced thier charm. In some way the Cornish don’t need to have gardens because the whole landscape is like one huge garden. For example, crocosmia and hydrangeas love the wet climate so much that they proliferate as a seemingly wild plant. Although it was a bit early for fuschias I’d imagine they do the same as they love a wet, mild climate.

In this trip I walked from Penzance to Lands End- a distance of about 12 miles over 3 days. It doesn’t sound much but when its pelting it down with rain,  your rucksack and clothes are soaked through and the whole walk is constantly going up and down steep rocky crags it feels like a lot more than the actual distance. Maybe I am just a pansy Southerner! However, It is a walk I would recommend to anyone who wants to see the most beautiful corner of England, though.

Hopefully next time I will make it to the Lost Gardens of Heligan with their famous pineapple production pits and immaculate walled garden as well as the wild beauty of Bodmin moor. But sadly that will be next time!

 

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